When to Work Double-Knitting Setup Rows Before a Sewn Rib Bind-Off
Work double-knitting setup rows when your pattern specifies them or when you want a fuller, rounded tubular edge. You can omit them when using an Italian sewn bind-off designed to start directly from ribbing. Brooklyn Tweed explicitly demonstrates both options, so the setup rows are a finishing choice unless your pattern requires them. Brooklyn Tweed’s Italian Tubular Bind Off
For a knitter finishing a ribbed cuff, hem or band, the practical task is to choose the edge structure, allow for its length, and work the correct preparation for flat or circular knitting. The instructions below cover ordinary 1×1 ribbing, with a separate note on preparing 2×2 rib.
What do double-knitting setup rows actually change?
Double-knitting preparation separates the alternating knit and purl stitches into two layers. The sewn finish then grafts those layers together. Ysolda describes two or four setup rows: two produce a subtler edge, while four make it more rounded and bouncy. These are structural rows, even though only alternate stitches are worked on each pass. Ysolda’s sewn tubular bind-off tutorial
The terminology varies between teachers. Purl Soho uses “Italian,” “Long Tail Tubular” and “Ribbed Sewn” for the same family of finishes, while Brooklyn Tweed’s Italian tubular tutorial demonstrates sewing directly from ribbing. Read the actual preparation instructions before deciding that a technique name requires additional knitted rows. Purl Soho’s Italian Bind Off, Brooklyn Tweed’s tutorial
When should you include the setup rows?
Start with your pattern’s finishing sequence. If it specifies two rounds of double knitting followed by an Italian bind-off, complete those rounds once, then begin the sewing instructions. A supplementary tutorial may include its own preparation; compare the two sequences before adding anything.
If you are choosing the finish yourself, use the following decision aid. It combines the documented options into a practical starting point; your yarn and sample should settle the final choice.
| Your situation | Suggested starting point |
|---|---|
| The pattern explicitly includes double-knitting preparation | Work the stated number of rows or rounds. |
| You want a rounded tubular edge | Sample two setup rows or rounds. |
| You want a more pronounced rounded finish | Compare four setup rows with two. |
| The yarn is bulky and the edge already looks substantial | Sample the sewn finish without knitted setup rows. |
| You want a flatter edge | Try the direct-from-ribbing version. |
The fuller-edge choices follow Ysolda’s comparison of two and four rows. Purl Soho specifically suggests omitting setup rows with chunky or bulky yarn to avoid excessive bulk; Knitgrammer describes the version without them as flatter. Ysolda’s setup options, Purl Soho’s preparation notes, Knitgrammer’s Tubular Bind-Off
How do you work the setup flat versus in the round?
The second pass changes according to whether you turn the work. For standard 1×1 rib, identify stitches as they appear on the side facing you. Slip stitches purlwise. “Yarn in front” and “yarn in back” refer to the working yarn’s position relative to that side. Purl Soho’s setup demonstration
Working flat
Work two rows as follows: knit the stitches that appear as knits and slip the stitches that appear as purls with yarn in front. Turn after the first row, then apply the same rule on the second. Because the work has turned, the second row works the other layer. Studio Klara’s flat preparation
Working in the round
On the first round, knit the knit stitches and slip the purl stitches purlwise with yarn in front. On the second round, slip the knit stitches purlwise with yarn in back and purl the purl stitches. You do not turn the work, so the instructions must change to work the other layer. Studio Klara’s circular preparation
Before continuing, check your stitch count and yarn placement. Move the yarn between the needle tips when changing position; Purl Soho demonstrates that movement in its preparation instructions. Purl Soho’s setup demonstration
When should preparation begin within the ribbing length?
Allow for the preparation before the ribbing reaches its intended finished length. Ysolda treats each double-knitting setup row as half a row of ordinary ribbing and advises beginning the finishing sequence with one or two regular rows or rounds remaining. The graft itself also contributes a row of stitches. Ysolda’s length and grafting guidance
For example, suppose you are sampling a band with a desired finished depth of 5 cm. Treat that number as the finished target, then compare where you need to stop ordinary ribbing for each finish. Record the depth before preparation and after sewing. This is an illustrative planning exercise, not a universal conversion: use your sample to establish the allowance for your project.
If your pattern already gives a ribbing measurement followed by explicit setup instructions, follow that sequence. Avoid independently subtracting rows unless you are deliberately adjusting the finished dimensions.
Are knitted setup rows the same as sewn setup passes?
No. Knitted setup rows use the working yarn and knitting needles to prepare the fabric. Sewn setup passes use the yarn tail and tapestry needle to establish the grafting sequence. Omitting the knitted preparation does not mean omitting the sewing method’s initial passes.
Brooklyn Tweed illustrates the distinction clearly: its tutorial starts directly from ribbing, yet still begins with two tapestry-needle setup passes before the repeating sewing movements. Follow one complete sewing sequence, including its assumptions about the first stitch and its ending instructions. Brooklyn Tweed’s written bind-off steps
What changes if your ribbing is 2×2?
Do not apply the alternating-stitch preparation blindly across knit-two, purl-two ribbing. The cited 1×1 methods expect alternating knit and purl stitches. Ysolda instructs knitters to rearrange 2×2 rib into 1×1 before beginning the double-knitting setup rows. Ysolda’s 2×2 ribbing instructions
Treat rearranging the stitches, working the preparation and sewing the edge as three separate stages. Use a documented conversion compatible with your pattern’s stitch arrangement, including any edge stitches. Once the stitches alternate, choose the appropriate flat or circular preparation.
How can you choose confidently before finishing the project?
Make two small samples using the project yarn, ribbing needles and the same stitch count. For a flat comparison, an even number such as 24 stitches gives a straightforward knit-one, purl-one repeat. Work enough ribbing to judge its appearance, then finish one sample directly from ribbing and the other after two setup rows. Add a third with four rows only if you want to compare a fuller edge.
This suggested comparison produces useful project-specific observations without assuming a result. Keep the sewing method consistent, finish the samples as you intend to finish the project, and examine three things: the edge’s profile, how it expands relative to the ribbing, and the depth added by finishing. Record which version you prefer.
If the prepared edge feels restricted, inspect both stages. Knitgrammer warns that short floats across slipped stitches can limit stretch. For the sewn stage, Ysolda recommends adjusting tension every few stitches to match the surrounding fabric. Adding setup rows cannot compensate for tightly drawn sewing. Knitgrammer’s float-tension guidance, Ysolda’s grafting-tension guidance
Choose the preparation that gives your ribbing the finish you want, then write down the sequence before starting the final edge: any stitch rearrangement, the number of knitted setup passes, and the chosen sewing instructions. That small record makes the decision repeatable across matching cuffs or bands.