How to Leave a Finished Tie Opening in the Middle of a French Seam

A French seam encloses the joined raw edges inside a second seam. At a tie opening, however, the two fabric edges must separate so the tie can pass between them. Simply omitting stitches from the second pass leaves the first seam closing the passage; omitting both passes leaves raw edges that still need finishing. Named Clothing explains the two-stage construction and recommends French seams particularly for light fabrics and simple constructions. Named Clothing: Basic Sewing Instructions

Think of the work as three consecutive sections: an enclosed seam above, two independently finished opening edges, and an enclosed seam below. The difficult points are the two junctions. Each must let the opening allowances spread apart while keeping the adjacent French seam enclosed.

Gather your garment pieces, the finished tie, matching thread, a marking tool, ruler, pins, small scissors and pressing equipment. Use two scraps of the garment fabric to rehearse the complete opening, including both junctions.

Transfer the pattern’s opening marks to both pieces. Label the upper endpoint A and the lower endpoint B, then mark the final seam line. Follow the pattern’s opening length when one is supplied. Otherwise, test the actual finished tie through a basted sample: it should pass through without forcing the endpoints apart.

The worked sample below uses a ½-inch total seam allowance, divided into a ¼-inch first pass and a ¼-inch second pass. This follows the allowance arrangement in Cashmerette’s slit tutorial. It is a sample specification, not permission to change your garment’s intended seam line. Cashmerette’s measured slit construction

For any French seam, check the allowance arithmetic before sewing:

First-pass distance from the raw edge + second-pass distance from the fold = total seam allowance consumed.

For example, ¼ inch + ¼ inch consumes ½ inch. A pattern drafted with ⅝ inch needs a different division or a deliberately adjusted cutting allowance. Changing the total changes where the garment pieces join.

Mark the measurements on your sample rather than estimating them at the machine. Also mark which surface is the right side; the fabric orientation changes between passes.

Sew the first pass

Place the pieces wrong sides together. With the sample’s ¼-inch allowance, stitch from the upper end of the seam to A and secure the stitching. Leave A–B completely unsewn. Start again at B, secure the start, and stitch the lower section.

Trim the allowances in the stitched sections to approximately ⅛ inch. Leave the opening allowances at their full width: they supply the fabric for finishing its edges. Before trimming, move any attached tie out of the cutting area.

Sew the enclosing pass

Press the stitched sections, then fold them right sides together, positioning the first stitching exactly along the fold. Sew the second pass ¼ inch from that fold, stopping at A and restarting at B. Secure all starts and stops. Keep the opening allowances free of the needle.

The sequence of sewing wrong sides together, trimming, folding right sides together and sewing again is the standard French-seam construction. Pressing accurately between passes helps place the first stitching inside the finished seam. Named Clothing’s French-seam instructions

Lay the sample flat and inspect it before proceeding. You should have two enclosed seam sections separated by a gap. Compare the final seam line above and below the gap with your original markings; neither section should step sideways.

The opening allowances need to turn away from each other while the French-seam allowances remain joined. In the clipped approach, release the opening allowances at A and B by clipping toward the secured seam endpoints. Stop at the stitching without cutting it. Cashmerette uses this release at the top of a slit; here, the lower junction repeats the arrangement in reverse. Cashmerette’s release-and-fold method

Work on one opening edge at a time. For the ½-inch sample allowance, turn the raw edge ¼ inch toward the wrong side, press, then turn it another ¼ inch. The second fold should sit on the marked final seam line. Repeat on the other piece, keeping the two opening edges separate.

At each endpoint, arrange the small transition so its cut edge turns underneath the finish. Baste before machining. Do not assume that a transverse row of stitches will conceal an exposed cut edge: inspect the underside and adjust the fold first. Chalk and Notch’s French-seam slit instructions likewise explicitly fold the cut point behind the slit before securing the turned edges. Chalk and Notch: Rivi Sew Along | Sew the Side Seam Slits

Edgestitch the folds in place without catching the opposite opening edge. Secure the upper and lower junctions with short transverse rows through the arranged allowances, immediately beyond the usable opening. Keep the passage between A and B clear.

If the clipped corners cannot be tucked away neatly in your sample, stop before clipping the garment. A wider facing or a different seam finish offers more room to enclose those junctions.

Yes, when the allowances can be shaped into smooth transitions. Burda’s wrap-blouse instructions describe finishing the tie opening before sewing the surrounding French seams: press the opening allowances inward between the slit marks, taper the folds toward the allowance edge above and below the marks, then turn under the raw edges and stitch them. The taper avoids clipping. Burda Style: 01/2012 Wrap blouse, steps 5–6

Try this construction on scraps if you prefer an uncut transition. Preserve the marked final seam line through the opening, keep both French-seam passes out of the passage, and examine where the tapered folds meet the enclosed sections. Follow the pattern’s specific allowance measurements when using its instructions.

These transition methods have different folding sequences. Choose one complete approach for the sample; combining a clipped endpoint with an improvised taper can make it difficult to tell which raw edges remain enclosed.

If the sample feels crowded, the fabric is bulky, or the opening is difficult to finish cleanly, use a conventional seam with separately finished allowances on the side carrying the tie. Other seams can still use French seams.

In the Folds recommends a turned-and-stitched finish for precisely this situation in its Wrap top: the tie opening requires allowances that can be pressed open. Its instructions describe turning under each allowance’s raw edge and stitching close to the fold. The designer also notes that this finish works better on straight seams and adds bulk to heavyweight fabrics. In the Folds: Alternate seam finishes for the wrap top

For that alternative, join the pieces right sides together at the pattern’s allowance, stopping and securing at A, then restarting at B. Press the allowances open, including through the gap. Turn under and stitch their raw edges separately. Secure the opening ends while leaving its passage clear. This avoids the two transitions between an enclosed seam and an open allowance.

Before finishing adjacent garment edges, check the sample and then the garment:

• Pass the finished tie through in the direction it will travel.
• Look inside both endpoints for exposed cut edges or loose threads.
• Check that the two opening edges meet along the intended seam line.
• Confirm that the endpoint stitching has not shortened the usable gap.
• Move the tie back and forth and inspect whether either junction pulls out of shape.

If the opening twists, release the basting and reassess the folds before adding more stitching. If threads protrude from the French seam, inspect the enclosing pass: the trimmed allowance may extend beyond it. If the tie catches, locate the obstruction rather than enlarging the opening by cutting into a finished endpoint.

The completed opening should give the tie a clear passage, with separately finished edges between two enclosed seam sections. Establish that result on the sample first; the two endpoint folds, rather than the long straight stitching, determine whether this detail will look finished inside and out.

• How to sew a side seam with French seams and slits — Cashmerette
• Basic Sewing Instructions — Named Clothing
• Rivi Sew Along | Sew the Side Seam Slits — Chalk and Notch
• 01/2012 Wrap blouse — Burda Style
• ISSUE 61 - Alternate seam finishes for the wrap top — In the Folds